The Medieval Walled City of York
05 June 2004
We take the train and spend a day in York.
York is a very, very old city. First as a Roman city (Eboracum,
built around 71-73 AD), later as a Danish and Viking stronghold (around 600
AD, and by then known as Yorvik), then as a medieval one, with its political
and religious intrigues (and regarded as important enough for the Archbishop
of York to be declared Primate of England by the Pope around 735 AD), and
finally as an elegant Jacobean and Georgian town of great beauty.
York was the birthplace of Guy Fawkes (who tried to blow up
the Houses of Parliament) and the final resting place of the highwayman, Dick
Turpin, who was hanged and is buried there. It was also in York that the Constantine
the Great was declared Emperor of the Roman Empire.
The Danish heritage of York is everywhere, surviving in its
street names - Monksgate, Micklegate, Stonegate, Swinegate, Newgate, etc -
the "gate" suffix coming from the Danish word "gat" meaning
"street" (and not as many suppose "a gate"). It is often
said in jest that in York ..."all the streets are "Gates",
the gates are called "Bars", and the bars are all pubs." At
one time there were
10,000 people in the Danish settlement of Yorvick, and it was here that Danish
kings lived to rule over Northumbria for more than 50 years.
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As we walked over the bridge in York, we saw
this interesting flotilla of boats moving upriver. They seem
to be locked together quite firmly, like a raft.
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The ruins of Saint Mary's Abbey. St Mary's Abbey
Ruins, once a Benedictine Abbey, was once the wealthiest and most
powerful monastery in the North. The second church to be built
on this site, it was completed in 1294 and is in the Early English
style.
The abbey fell into ruin after the dissolution of
the monasteries in 1539 instigated by King Henry VIII.
Legend has it was the home of the infamous abbot
and cellarer from whom, an ally of Robin Hood, Sir Richard of
the Lee, borrowed the large sum of 400 pounds. The poor knight
was enable to repay the debt and the uncharitable couple were
about to foreclose on him and seize his lands. However, Robin
stepped in and lent him the money and Sir Richard travelled to
York, with Little John acting as his squire, to repay the loan
in full - much to the surprise of the greedy Abbot.
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St. Mary's Abbey, and in the foreground, the remains
of the Norman church that preceeded it.
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Multangular Tower. This was originally a corner
of a Roman fortress. It has been called the Multangular Tower
since 1683. Between 1315 and 1683 it was called Elrondyng. It
was probably built during the reign of the Emperor Severus who
was in York between 209Sun, 30-Oct-2005 2:13 PMstones were added in the late 13th Century to strengthen
the medieval fortifications of the Abbey and City. The wall continues
a ways to a ruined building, which is probably at least partially
Roman, but there are no signs to identify the building or its
history.
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York Minster. It very much dominates York, and
is visible from almost anywhere within the city. It is a gothic
Cathedral, the largest in Northern Europe. Begun in 1220 and not
completed until 1472 it illustrates graphically the rivalry that
existed between Canterbury and York for the Primacy of the Church
of England - each trying desperately to outdo the other in scale
and grandeur. We didn't go inside this time, decided to save that
for another day. This is the front of the cathedral.
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The front entrance to St. Winifred's, a smaller
church right in front of the Minster. Actually, there are quite
a lot of very old churches all over York.
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The Shambles. As you can see, this is currently
a very popular shopping district in York. It is often called
Europe's best preserved medieval street, although the name is
also used to collectively refer to the surrounding maze of narrow,
twisting lanes and alleys as well. The street itself is mentioned
in the Domesday Book, so we know that it has been in continuous
existence for over 900 years. The name "Shambles" comes from
the Saxon "Fleshammels", which means, "the street of the butchers",
for it was here that the city's butcher's market was located.
The butcher's shops have now been replaced with shops catering
to visitors, including jewelry and antiques, and plenty of souvenir
shops.
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Clifford's Tower stands on a high mound erected
by William the Conqueror as part of his campaign to overthrow
the North. He threw up two mottes (mounds) with wooden keeps
on top - one became Clifford's Tower and the Baille Hill, which
can be seen on the side of the river, although the tower there
has long since disappeared.
It was the scene of what was perhaps one of the
most terrible events in York's history. In 1190 the Jews of
York sought refuge there after being attacked by a local mob.
They were given the choice of being either baptised or killed,
but they took a third option and committed mass suicide. At
this time the tower was built of timber and so burned to the
ground.
It was rebuilt in stone when York Castle was rebuilt
between 1245 and 1265. Clifford's Tower, the bailey walls, towers,
gates, bridges, two halls, a chapel, a kitchen and a prison
were all built at this time. The name Clifford's Tower was first
recorded in 1596. Before then it was called the great tower.
Between 1245 and 1445, the castle needed major repairs - the
keep had cracked from top to bottom. By 1535 it was in ruins.
It was repaired and there were soldiers stationed there during
the Civil War in 1644.
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One of the mini-cars on display in the old castle bailey.
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Another three-wheeler. I'd bet money this one was
manufactured in the late 60s or 70s. Just has that look about
it.
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The York Minster from the top of Clifford's Tower.
See what I mean about how it dominates the city? I'm not sure
what church's steeple is in the foreground.
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I heard this horse-and-buggy coming, and was lucky enough to
snap this nice picture as they went by.
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Part of the wall part of the "Walled City of York".
Parts of the walls were originally built in Roman times, and have
been expanded and built upon since then - by the Danes in around
876, and various others in subsequent centuries. I believe the
current walls were built in the 12th, 13th and/or 14th centuries.
The gateways through the defences in York are called 'bars'. The
name 'bar' has its origins in the bars, or simple gates, which
were used to block the gateways to keep people out.
The bars of course controlled access to the city, but were also
a symbol of the city's importance. York was England's second city
through most of the Middle Ages. The bars became a backdrop for
elaborate civic ceremonies.
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York Minster, as seen from the Wall near the train station.
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