Top End Journal, May 2000
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I kept this journal daily on my handheld Windows CE computer, a Hewlett Packard Jornada 820. I use an extremely casual style in my journals, so any grammatical errors are intentional.
Friday, May 5: Day 1
5 May 00, Start 9:30am, overcast 10C (14c)
2:00 pm. Just on the road again, having stopped at Taylor Creek roadside stop.
So far, as expected. A very very boring drive. At one point we made jokes because the road actually had a bend in it. The road's less straight just now, but the terrain is still flat and desert. I don't expect to start seeing it change toward tropical until later tomorrow.
Only excitement is we already managed to get a dent when a bird hit us. Fortunately we have full coverage and so we don't have to pay for it. The dent's pretty large, and caused a crease in the paint. We are seeing lots of birds, from little finches hanging out on the road, to white herons. And we just passed some sort of buzzard.
I drove the first leg, and we switched drivers, got gas, etc. in Ti Tree. We're currently about 50 km north of Barrow Creek. The road is long and straight again, with a mirage at its end, making it look like it vanishes and there's only sky between the roadside trees.
We brought sandwiches and chips for lunch, which we ate at Taylor Creek. Only one vehicle passed us during the time we had stopped. We see a vehicle going the other way maybe once or twice every half hour - and that's usually a road train. A very lonely road.
Saturday, May 6: Day 2
6 May, 7:00am Outback Caravan Park. Sun's just come up, clear.
I almost forgot, we did stop at Devils Marbles, which is about 100km south of Tennant Creek.
We've just showered packed etc. This is cramped living, and takes a bit of practice. Last night we got in around 5pm, got set up and walked into town. Tennant Creek isn't exactly exciting. We hit the IGA for sandwich meat, then went back. Dinner was a noodle bag. We had some wine, and then running out of things to do, we went to bed around 8:00. I read for a while. We slept in our sweatpants, which I found terribly uncomfortable. I woke up a lot, but we had plenty of time to fit in 8 hours. A plane flew over low and loud at 6:00am, I gave up well before our 6:30 planned wakeup time. There was nobody in the showers, but it is currently a very chilly morning. Luckily, the campsite's well protected by trees, but this thing is a bear to drive with a side wind.
Looks like we're about ready to head out. I'll turn this over to John for his notes. We drove 523km yesterday.
6 May 00. 9:51am. Renner Springs, 171km
Quick bagel break, and driver switch. Also filled up the tank. John ran into one of our "neighbors" from last night, they spoke for a few moments....
6 May 00, 12:30 Hi Way Inn. 410 km
We'll be stopping at Dailey Waters in just a couple kms, but stopped here to get gas 'cause its a BP. Warmer now, I'm in just a t-shirt now. Not a cloud anywhere.
6 May 00 7:00pm Nitmiluk Caravan Park.
Just finished dinner - macaroni and cheese - and sitting around, watching the red flying foxes heading out for the night. The sites are smaller and less private here - lots less trees.
Today was all driving - 728.6km worth. The bats are very noisy, but I'm not sure all the really loud animal noises are bats. It is much warmer here, tonight, than last night. Muggier too though.
We had lunch at Dailey Waters Pub - sandwiches - then continued on. Sounds like monkeys in the nearby trees... anyway, John drove the last leg today, and I didn't pay much attention.
During the day, the bats hang out on the trees near the Amenities building, like so much black fruit. At sunset, not unexpectedly, they've been trickling out to the gorges. They are quite large, about galah size or a bit larger.
Our neighbors are quite talkative and noisy. I think they may be a church group. We saw a bit of wildlife today - wild donkeys crossing the road, a wallaby when we were walking back from checking out the boat launch. We'll be taking the 9:00am 2 hr boat ride, then coming back , eating lunch, and heading for somewhere around Litchfield, where we'll spend most of the day after tomorrow. We're going to try to stay up later tonight - or at least I am - since we don't have to get up particularly early. Guess I'll let John do his notes now.
Sunday, May 7: Day 3
7 May 00, 7:17am
Morning at the Gorge caravan park. The bats came home at around 1am, to lots of calling. They've since been making considerable noise, but not nearly the 1am racket. I've been woken up by all sorts of bird calls, but this is the first time I've been woken up by bats. They're all over the amenities trees again. Noisy batfruit :) I'll go take a picture once the sun comes over the ridge. John's going to make eggs and coffee this morning, since we aren't in a hurry to go anywhere.
Last night, there were a number of wallabies wandering around camp. I got a couple pictures of them near our spot. There's some kind of bird in the tree near our spot, looking to see if we have anything to share.
It was a good thing I went to the showers so early (6:30am) as by the time... I had to stop for a moment to get a picture of the bird and its friends, apparently they are some kind of honeyeater. Our neighbors said they ate a whole avocado yesterday. Camp robbers. It is nearly 7:30 and the sun still hasn't crested the ridge, not even enough to brighten the treetops.
7 May 00, 5:22pm Caravillage, Batchelor
I've just realized I haven't been noting the weather. Well, it's been universally sunny, with no clouds, and warmer as we go further north - not unexpected. It is quite muggy here, but not super hot, thought the flies are bothering me. might be time for some fly spray.
7 May 00, 5:45
We went over and paid, as when we came in, the office was unattended.
We had boiled eggs for breakfast. On my way over to the amenities, I stopped to take pictures of the bats. I thought the tree I was under was free of bats, but I was mistaken and got peed on. Ah well. Around 8:30 we closed up shop and headed for the boat landing. We got a front seat on all the trips, lucky us. The cruise was nice, though we didn't see much wildlife beyond a glimpse of a freshwater crocodile. We had to hoof it past a set of rapids between the first and second gorges, but it was not a difficult walk. I enjoyed the cruise. After that
Darn, this is Britz Land tonight! Another Britz Campervan just pulled in to take the spot next to us that has the picnic table. Every berth along this side that has a resident has a Britz van. The spot to our left is still empty though.
Anyway, after that, we had lunch then headed out. Originally we were going to stay two nights, but the small sites and very loud bats changed our minds (though we were already thinking about only one night when we arrived). So we headed out around noon. We stopped at Edith falls and had a swim, which John really enjoyed. It reminded me of Ellery Creek Big Hole, except it was the size of a small lake and had a pretty little waterfall at the opposite end. The water was quite cold, and I didn't stay in long. We saw some very large termite mounds - some over 12' tall - on our way. After some false starts (or rather stops) we finally found some where it was safe to pull over, and I got a couple of pictures. Later on we saw some even bigger ones.
We refueled at Adelaide River, but had already decided to stay in Batchelor. At Edith Falls, I spoke to an Irish lady who, with her companion, was traveling south from Darwin on their way to Perth. They had been working in Sydney for the last 7 month, and her friend (a guy) was going to spend some time in New York City so he can retain his green card. Anyway, she stayed at Caravillage last night, and suggested it as a place to stay. So here we are.
There are a lot of small birds flying about, sounding and behaving slightly like budgies. I think they might be Rainbow Lorikeets. They are quite noisy, but not nearly as nerve-grating as those bats were.
John is currently making dinner. This is quite a nice little campground.
Monday, May 8: Day 4
8 May 00, 7:37am CaraVillage
Well, we went over to watch the birds feed, but it was all galahs and pigeons. Got a picture of a Cockatoo, but no Rosellas. Bummer. It is a beautiful morning, and we'll be sleeping in a real bed tonight. Not that the sleeping accommodations of this campervan are bad - its quite comfortable, but for some reason I don't move, and therefore my neck is very very stiff and sore.
We had a mouse last night, but he seemed to give up once I moved the popcorn from under the sink to a more inaccessible location.
Tuesday, May 9: Day 5
9 May 00, 8:05am Darwin, Value Inn
I've lost track of the days [authors note: the days were added when I built the web page], but then again, I notice that I have not been using them anyway. We both thought Caravillage a nice place. After a breakfast-bar breakfast, we headed out to Litchfield Park. Our first stop was the magnetic termite mounds. Unlike most we have seen (apparently, Cathedral Termites), these mounds were really more like sheets, thin and angled on a more or less north-south axis. This is apparently an unusual way of ensuring the mound's internal temperature stays even. Magnetic Termites will only build on black soil plains, apparently.
After the termite mounds, we went to Florence Falls, and visited both the lookout and the plunge pool. As it was still early, it was a bit chilly to swim. But it was getting warmer all the time. Florence Falls is a double waterfall.
On the way back from Florence Falls we stopped at Buley rockholes, which is really a series of steep rapids with some rather deep pools in between. John soaked his feet for a few minutes, while I watched a couple of guys climbing a steep bit - the big, macho type was having a bit of trouble.
Tolmer was our next stop, a tall thin "bridalveil" falls. The lookout was well above the canyon, and the canyon was closed to protect the Orange something bat. We talked there a few minutes with some ladies from Darwin.
After Tolmer was Wangi, which was quite spectacular and had a beautiful plunge pool. Unfortunately, it was closed for swimming or we would have jumped in in a second. We stayed there for a little while, and then had lunch at the kiosk - I had what i know as an Aussie Burger (salad, egg, bacon, pineapple but NO beetroot) and John had an egg-and-bacon sandwich.
After that was just Darwin. It is hot and muggy here. After we settled in, we went out to Smith Street Mall, and wandered around from there. I still haven't purchased anything, as shopping has been somewhat disappointing. All the tourist stuff is the same things I can get in Alice. We had dinner at Sizzler (!) which was great. Didn't realize I miss Sizzlers till we found one. John was in heaven, as he could have pork ribs. After dinner we went to the cinema, and saw Gladiator. We enjoyed it, but it was long and we didn't return to our room until midnight.
John just took off to do the laundry, and I will join him as soon as I finish taking a shower.
9 May 00, Darwin, 10:03pm
A long day. After laundry, we folded and then headed out. We went back to the Smith Street Mall first, had a bit of breakfast and John visited the ACA. We wandered out to the wharf - a complete waste of time, as we went to the wrong one - and out to a supposed Chinese temple - private property, no trespassing, and after a visit to Tandy we finally went back to the room. One thing I did do is stop at the Amcal pharmacy to get a couple of things, and fell in love with a stuffed donkey, which is now sitting nest to me. His name is now Darwin. After we came back and cleaned up (another hot and humid day) we headed out to Cullen Bay. it took us about an hour to get there, and then there wasn't much to do. I really thought there would be more shops and stuff, but there were not. It was spitting rain all day.
The boat ride was utterly fantastic. I've never been on a sailboat before, but the trip on the Starchaser was wonderful. No sunset, too cloudy, but I really enjoyed myself. Walked around on the boat a bit while we were underway, figured out how to use a ships toilet :). Tired, maybe write more tomorrow.
Wednesday, May 10: Day 6
10 May 00, 8:33pm Kakadu Frontier Village? Jabiru, anyway
Very muggy out. We got in a litttle late, around 5:30, and promptly went swimming. Then had dinner - fish and chips - and trying not to fall asleep.
Thursday, May 11: Day 7
11 May 00, 7:08pm Cooinda caravan park, nr yellow Waters
Getting eaten alive by mosquitoes. Not surprising, as we're in the tropics and near water. Today wasn't exactly a glorious day. We went on the plane ride, but it was very bumpy and I got very, very sick. Sicker than I have been in a long time. Something to do with that large chocolate muffin I had for breakfast. Might have been a bit of food poisoning, as I stayed sick long after the plane landed. Too bad, from what I could see the scenery was spectacular. We got fairly decent views of Jim Jim and Twin Falls and other landmarks I was too sick to appreciate. Once we landed, I sat on the tarmac for a while while the other passengers and John got pictures of themselves with the pilot and plane. I then spent more time dozing on their office floor, until I realized I wasn't going to get better quickly, and went to watch a movie with John, then gave up on that and went into the van to sleep. I really, really needed to lay down.
Later John came out, and we drove around doing things I didn't pay any attention to. At the Bowali visitor center, I recovered enough to wander around there. Bought a couple of pretty, non-tourist t-shirts. After that we went to Nourlangie rock and looked at some aboriginal rock paintings. I wanted to stay around to listen to the guide of a group we ran into, but john had to continue on. We went to the lookout at the end - nice view - and returned. By then I was feeling much better.
We stopped at the Anbangbang billabong (I love that word, billabong) which was very pretty...
We just went inside, having decided that being bloody hot was better than being eaten bloody by mosquitoes. Even two layers of Off weren't helping.
Anyway, the Anbangbang billabong was pretty, and impressive with the escarpment hanging over it. We saw some Sulfur-crested Cockatoos and what might have been a "medium" egret. And some ducks in the distance.
We got in here around 5:00, and John promptly wanted to go swimming. Still not feeling completely up to par, I passed but hung out at the pool and read. After that, we came back here and read some more, and I made dinner - four cheese pasta (bag) and Doritos. and now I am caught up.
We have a 10:00 date with a boat, taking the Yellow Water cruise. Maybe we'll see some crocodiles. Certainly, this'll be our last chance. I did overhear somebody at the last place, looking at some postcards, stating that the croc pictured there was the same one they saw at Yellow Waters this morning. It "smiled" in just the same way, apparently.
John is killing bugs with our little, apparently worthless, citronella candle. I feel nasty and sticky, being sweaty and having multiple layers of Off on.
Friday, May 12: Day 8
12 May 00, Cooinda, 8:00am
I ended up taking a shower, but was nasty and sticky again as soon as I got in the van. Again, I didn't sleep well, especially 'cause John woke me up in the middle of the night to help him find a mosquito.
I've showered, but I'm already nasty and sticky, with lots of OFF on. I'll be very glad to get out of the Tropics!
It rained last night, but not a whole lot. It's especially sticky and hot this morning, and mostly cloudy. We go on the Yellow Water cruise at 10:00 am, then off to Katherine.
12 May 00, 12:00pm Cooinda
The Yellow Waters cruise was great! We saw lots of wildlife and flowers. Most memorable was the huge saltwater croc sitting on a dry bit. We saw 5 crocodiles, Australian Darters, little corellas, Sea Eagles, Whistling Kites (I hear one now), Kingfishers, jacarandas (? Jesus Birds, 'cause they walk on water), Jabiru, egrets, and others. We saw lilies, lotus and snowflake flowers. We spent a lot of time wandering through a paperbark swamp. It was a two-hour cruise, and my favorite event yet next to the sailboat.
Last night, we once again heard dingos howling, quite close. I forgot to mention that yesterday morning, a dingo wandered through camp, and they howled quite a bit the previous night.
The most annoying thing is still the mosquitoes. Surprisingly, the weren't bad on the cruise, but they are quite annoying as I write this.
Saturday, May 13: Day 9
13 May 00, 7:42am Katherine Low Level
Fairly short drive, we only stopped at a couple places, and arrived in Katherine around 4:30. Did a touch of shopping, stopped at the quasi-internet-cafe (couple of machines at the back of an aboriginal art gallery) then went looking for a place to stay. I'd heard this was nice... and it is, but it is very large, and very busy. The weather currently is cloudy, but thank heavens it is cooler and drier - though not cold. while surfing yesterday, I had some extra time and visited weatherunderground, and it said the weather in Alice is quite a bit warmer than when we left (it was about 15C when we left) at around 29-30C. Today, we only go to Cutta Cutta Caves and Mataranka. At Mataranka are the hot pools and hopefully some horseback riding. We're nearly done with this trip, as after Mataranka its basically just the two-day drive home. Well, have to get packed up and ready to go.
13 May 00, 4:02pm Mataranka Homestead
Got in before two, but alas, no horseback riding. Indeed, not much in the way of services, as they were heavily flood damaged about a month ago. We spent a good deal of time in the thermal pool though, and that was nice. The water is just tepid. Not a true hot springs, as the water is not really thermally 'heated', its just at the temperature the water is about 100m below the ground here. Currently we are just hanging out, but are planning on going walkabout soon. I'm looking at some of my photos of this trip.
Sunday, May 14: Day 10
14 May 00, 5:04pm Devils Marbles
Pretty uninteresting day. As usual we were woken up by a local bird, but this time before the morning cacophony, which started while I was in the shower. John is presently cooking dinner - Ramen noodles and beef. This is our only "unpowered" night - the biggest disadvantage being no flushing toilets and no showers. I think we'll survive. :)
Just went up to the marbles behind our site, and sat up there for a while watching a black kite wheeling around. The temperatures have dropped quite a bit - quite suddenly, really, as we came south - and I'm now in pants again. It is breezy and we expect it to be quite cool tonight. We also expect to be home early afternoon tomorrow.
Monday, May 15: Day 11
15 May 00, 6:42 am Devils Marbles
Its a cold, breezy morning. The sunrise is just beginning, and there's an older gentleman walking around with a camera, looking for a good view. Nope, he's given up. Not willing to climb the rocks, I guess. I just went behind "our" tree and took a picture from there. It has tents in it but hey. Spent much of the night wishing the dunnies were closer or it wasn't so cold. A trip to the toilet meant getting completely dressed, wandering out in the cold, then getting undressed again upon my return. Instead I waited and waited for it to be late enough I could stay up. Thusly, I'm a bit tired this morning. John's currently cleaning up - only one person at a time can work in the van when the bed's together.
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